The information found in this section of the game plan will help you become familiar with key terminology and FAQ’s associated with your project. Having familiarity with this content will help give you confidence in knowing what you want before you meet your Build-It-Better coach.
A meeting with your build it better coach will include some of the questions and information on the Build-It-Better website. Consideration to each of the questions found on Build-It-Better game plans will help make the process go as smoothly and as quickly as possible.
- Baluster/spindle: Vertical components that provide support, safety and design options to the deck railing.
- Beam: A framing member attached to the posts used to support the joists.
- Bridging: Short pieces of lumber that strengthen the framing and reduce bounce in joists.
- Cantilever: A construction method that involves extending the joists beyond the support beam or the support beam beyond the posts.
- Cap rail: Horizontal board that runs along the deck on top of the rail posts.
- Deck blocks: Pre-cast concrete blocks that sit on top of the ground and are used to hold up posts.
- Deck boards: Boards that make up the surface of the deck. The standard size is 5/4” x 6” but a 2×6 can be used as an alternative. Deck boards are secured to the joists.
- Expansion and Contraction: Boards expand when they heat and contract when they cool. When spacing deck boards, you must leave a small gap to allow for expansion and contraction.
- Fascia: Boards that cover the end of the deck boards and rim boards for aesthetic purposes. Skirting can be added to cover the space between the fascia and the ground.
- Footings/piers: A concrete column that supports the beam and the deck structure. A footing is below ground where a pier is above ground.
- Grade line: The slope of the ground.
- Guardrail: A lower horizontal rail that runs along the rail posts.
- Joist: Horizontal framing members that support the decking boards.
- Joist hanger: A pre-engineered piece that attaches joists to ledger boards, rim boards and beams. Joist hangers are galvanized to prevent rust and rot.
- Joist hangers: Metal fasteners that attach the joist to the rim or ledger boards.
- Ledger board: A board attached to the house to support one side of the deck. Not used on a freestanding deck.
- Nominal Dimensions: The label given to a piece of lumber. For example, a 2×4 is the name of a board that actual measures approximately 1 7/16” X 3 ½”.
- Post anchor/saddle: Metal brackets that attach the post to the footings/piers.
- Posts: Timbers set vertically to support the deck framing, usually attached to the footings and the beams. Typically a 4×4 post is used for deck construction.
- Rail posts: Vertical posts that hold the railing. Attached to the framing of the deck.
- Rim board: The board that runs along the ends of the other joists. Creates the outside edge of the deck framing.
- Riser/Toe board: Vertical board attached to steps on a stairway.
- Sono tube: A form used to hold concrete in place when setting footings/piers.
- Stair stringers: Long diagonal framing members that support stair treads.
- Tread: Horizontal board that makes each step in a staircase.
- Sub-structure: The part of deck construction that is below the deck boards and supports the load of the deck. Components of the sub-structure include joists, beams, hangers, anchors, posts and footings.
What is the length and what is the width of my deck?
There is no true definition of length or width for a deck. Typically, people consider the length to be the distance perpendicular to the house and the width to be the distance parallel to the house.
Do joists go perpendicular, parallel or diagonal to the house?
This all depends on the design of your deck and which way you want your deck boards to run. A consultation with a Build-It-Better coach will help determine the answer to this question.
How close to the fence line can a deck be?
A typical answer would be this: If your deck is going to be more than 18 inches above the ground you cannot build the deck within 20 feet of the front property line or within 5 feet of side property lines.
This regulation varies by region so always check with your local permit office before building.
What is the highest a deck can be?
Normally a deck cannot be higher than your house. Maximum height restrictions vary by region so check with your local permit office.
How do you map out a deck?
Where should footings be placed?
The placement of footings is another thing that depends on deck design. Typically footings should not be more than 6’6” from each other. Larger beam lumber such as 2×12 can span a further distance if needed.
After you string out your deck size and get a design, it helps to mark footing spacing to get an even better feel for what your deck will be like. This also helps in the execution stage of building a deck when you need to dig holes.
How far can cantilever go on a deck?
Anything over 18” needs to be designed by an engineer. This can vary by region so check with your local permit office.
Do I have to use landscape fabric below my deck?
In some municipalities you are required to use fabric and gravel – we recommend that you check with your local permit office. Even if you are not required to use these materials it can go a long way on lawn and weed maintenance around and under a deck.
Do I need to maintain my deck when it is completed?
Proper maintenance will go a long way in extending the lifespan of your deck. Maintenance should be done approximately every 3-5 years as explained in the “Maintaining Your Deck” section of the deck game plan.
IMPORTANT TOOLS REQUIRED TO BUILD YOUR DECK
- Circular saw
- Mitre saw
- Chalk line
- Tape measure
- Level
- Drill
- Hammer
- Nail gun
- Shovel
- Clamshell digger or auger
- String
- Eye and hearing protection
- Other tools may be required
The information found in this section of the game plan will help you become familiar with key terminology and FAQ’s associated with your project. Having familiarity with this content will help give you confidence in knowing what you want before you meet your Build-It-Better coach.
A meeting with your build it better coach will include some of the questions and information on the Build-It-Better website. Consideration to each of the questions found on Build-It-Better game plans will help make the process go as smoothly and as quickly as possible.
- Baluster/spindle: Vertical components that provide support, safety and design options to the deck railing.
- Beam: A framing member attached to the posts used to support the joists.
- Bridging: Short pieces of lumber that strengthen the framing and reduce bounce in joists.
- Cantilever: A construction method that involves extending the joists beyond the support beam or the support beam beyond the posts.
- Cap rail: Horizontal board that runs along the deck on top of the rail posts.
- Deck blocks: Pre-cast concrete blocks that sit on top of the ground and are used to hold up posts.
- Deck boards: Boards that make up the surface of the deck. The standard size is 5/4” x 6” but a 2×6 can be used as an alternative. Deck boards are secured to the joists.
- Expansion and Contraction: Boards expand when they heat and contract when they cool. When spacing deck boards, you must leave a small gap to allow for expansion and contraction.
- Fascia: Boards that cover the end of the deck boards and rim boards for aesthetic purposes. Skirting can be added to cover the space between the fascia and the ground.
- Footings/piers: A concrete column that supports the beam and the deck structure. A footing is below ground where a pier is above ground.
- Grade line: The slope of the ground.
- Guardrail: A lower horizontal rail that runs along the rail posts.
- Joist: Horizontal framing members that support the decking boards.
- Joist hanger: A pre-engineered piece that attaches joists to ledger boards, rim boards and beams. Joist hangers are galvanized to prevent rust and rot.
- Joist hangers: Metal fasteners that attach the joist to the rim or ledger boards.
- Ledger board: A board attached to the house to support one side of the deck. Not used on a freestanding deck.
- Nominal Dimensions: The label given to a piece of lumber. For example, a 2×4 is the name of a board that actual measures approximately 1 7/16” X 3 ½”.
- Post anchor/saddle: Metal brackets that attach the post to the footings/piers.
- Posts: Timbers set vertically to support the deck framing, usually attached to the footings and the beams. Typically a 4×4 post is used for deck construction.
- Rail posts: Vertical posts that hold the railing. Attached to the framing of the deck.
- Rim board: The board that runs along the ends of the other joists. Creates the outside edge of the deck framing.
- Riser/Toe board: Vertical board attached to steps on a stairway.
- Sono tube: A form used to hold concrete in place when setting footings/piers.
- Stair stringers: Long diagonal framing members that support stair treads.
- Tread: Horizontal board that makes each step in a staircase.
- Sub-structure: The part of deck construction that is below the deck boards and supports the load of the deck. Components of the sub-structure include joists, beams, hangers, anchors, posts and footings.
What is the length and what is the width of my deck?
There is no true definition of length or width for a deck. Typically, people consider the length to be the distance perpendicular to the house and the width to be the distance parallel to the house.
Do joists go perpendicular, parallel or diagonal to the house?
This all depends on the design of your deck and which way you want your deck boards to run. A consultation with a Build-It-Better coach will help determine the answer to this question.
How close to the fence line can a deck be?
A typical answer would be this: If your deck is going to be more than 18 inches above the ground you cannot build the deck within 20 feet of the front property line or within 5 feet of side property lines.
This regulation varies by region so always check with your local permit office before building.
What is the highest a deck can be?
Normally a deck cannot be higher than your house. Maximum height restrictions vary by region so check with your local permit office.
How do you map out a deck?
Where should footings be placed?
The placement of footings is another thing that depends on deck design. Typically footings should not be more than 6’6” from each other. Larger beam lumber such as 2×12 can span a further distance if needed.
After you string out your deck size and get a design, it helps to mark footing spacing to get an even better feel for what your deck will be like. This also helps in the execution stage of building a deck when you need to dig holes.
How far can cantilever go on a deck?
Anything over 18” needs to be designed by an engineer. This can vary by region so check with your local permit office.
Do I have to use landscape fabric below my deck?
In some municipalities you are required to use fabric and gravel – we recommend that you check with your local permit office. Even if you are not required to use these materials it can go a long way on lawn and weed maintenance around and under a deck.
Do I need to maintain my deck when it is completed?
Proper maintenance will go a long way in extending the lifespan of your deck. Maintenance should be done approximately every 3-5 years as explained in the “Maintaining Your Deck” section of the deck game plan.
IMPORTANT TOOLS REQUIRED TO BUILD YOUR DECK
- Circular saw
- Mitre saw
- Chalk line
- Tape measure
- Level
- Drill
- Hammer
- Nail gun
- Shovel
- Clamshell digger or auger
- String
- Eye and hearing protection
- Other tools may be required
Customer Service
1-855-561-1114
Copyright 2023 Turkstra Lumber Company Ltd. | Privacy Policy | All Rights Reserved
Customer Service
1-855-561-1114
Copyright 2023 Turkstra Lumber Company Ltd.
Privacy Policy
All Rights Reserved
